So, my wife, Alex and I have been into reef tanks since 2011. It's been quite the journey. Our main setup is a 450-gallon display tank. It's been with us through thick and thin. But, life happened—we had our daughter, Izzi, and, well, the tank didn't get the love it deserved for a while. Recently, we've given it a fresh start, and it's like falling in love with reefing all over again. Not stopping there, we set up a 150-gallon frag grow-out tank a couple of months ago. What started as a modest project quickly escalated into a full-blown coral obsession. The tank is now brimming with vibrant frags, each more captivating than the last. From the very beginning, we've been regulars at Liquid Kingdom. Over time, we've built a strong friendship with the owners, Tom and Deb. While they weren't initially coral aficionados, they've embraced our enthusiasm. We've partnered with them to provide a diverse range of corals in their shop, expanding their offerings and sharing our passion with the community. To accommodate our growing collection, we've recently added a Mixed Reef RedSea Reefer 425 G2 Max to Liquid Kingdoms shop. It's been a fantastic addition, offering both functionality and aesthetics. We also ordered a Waterbox frag tank, which unfortunately arrived with a crack. Kudos to Waterbox for their excellent customer service—they promptly replaced it. We're excited to get it up and running this Thursday. I along with help from Alex will be maintaining these tanks and selling corals out of mainly the frag tank but also some show pieces out of the RedSea display. All these developments have culminated in the birth of our new venture: Marine Alchemist. Its our new business where we will focus on mainly aquacultured corals but will also order in wild. We also will be culturing phytoplankton and copepods. Check us out at marine-alchemist.com. Stay tuned for more updates, and happy reefing! delivery! Stand Build Mostly set up Water! Symphillya Australomussa button and reg Scoly start of a zoa garden plus 40.00 frag rack Logo

Some stuff I have available in my frag tank. Might be interested in trading for something I don't have.

Water changes definitely work—don’t get me wrong. But I think we often overlook some important math. When you perform a 33% water change, you're only replenishing 33% of what was consumed during that time. The new water gets diluted into the existing water, which means each subsequent water change becomes slightly less effective. Over time, this dilution effect adds up. That’s why dosing macro and trace elements eventually becomes necessary. Personally, I believe this dilution is what led to the dreaded “old tank syndrome” back in the day—before automatic dosing systems became the norm. I had AI do the math (any mathematicians out there want to verify this?)for what it would take to change 100% of the water in a system doing consecutive 33% water changes (keep in mind this does not factor time between water changes when more depletion of elements occurs) and this is what it came up with:

I got this as part of a bigger pack so it wasn't labeled as to what it is. Based on the polyp type and how it's coming off the skeleton I'm guessing it's cyphastrea. However the polyp size is very small, about half of the standard cyphastrea. Also after a few weeks in my tank I noticed it was getting bubbles! Anyone else seen anything like this? Bounce Cyphastrea

I wanted to try and create an all inclusive fish guide with the general temperament (Listed in order of aggressiveness on a scale of teddy bear to cocaine bear) of common aquarium fish as well as any anecdotal quirks they might have. This is a living document so I would love to hear stories about your fish attitudes in the comments and I will keep updating the list to reflect all of your experiences! The larger groupings of fish will be bold while specific fish with more unique behavior or different temperament will be listed individually. Important: 1. All fish are unique creatures with unique attitudes and behaviors this is meant only as a general guide. 2. Fish of the exact same species if not a mated pair or a shoaling type fish will always be more aggressive toward each other sometimes fighting to the death. 3. The more similar a fish is in shape, size, and feeding habits the more likely they are to be aggressive to each other. Color Key: Full Reef Safe Might pick at coral and small inverts Not Reef Safe Teddy Bear • Dragonettes (may need special diet if not aqua cultured) • Scooter Dragonettes (when full size will eat flat worms) • Rainford goby (algae eater) • Hectors goby (algae eater) • Gobies • • Rabbit Fish (Eats almost ALL algae) • • Tassel File Fish • Puffers • • Blennies • • File Fish • • Basslets • • Aiptasia Eating File Fish  (will usually eat nuisance aiptasia, will sometimes pick at more meaty corals) • Copper Banded Butterfly (will usually eat nuisance aiptasia, will sometimes pick at more meaty corals) • • Dwarf Angelfish • • Butterfly Fish • • Wrasses (bigger wrasses will eat small invertebrates but generally leave coral alone) • • Clown Fish ( can be very Territorial, wont go out and pick a fight but will attack anyone near their little area) • • Bellus Angel • Lemarks Angel • Japanese Lyre Tail Angel • Blue Jaw Trigger • Cross Hatch Trigger • Pink tail Trigger • • Parrot Fish • • Tangs (Algae eater) • • Angel Fish (Usually wont eat small polyp corals) • • Groupers • • Damsel Fish • • Six Line Wrasse (will eat flat worms) • • • Triggers • • • Clown Trigger • Undulated Trigger • Barracuda • Great White Cocaine Bear

Micromussa Corals: Taxonomy, Care Requirements, and Reclassification Rainbow Micromussa Lordhowensis Micromussa corals are a group of large-polyp stony (LPS) corals prized by reef aquarists for their vivid colors and fleshy polyps. Formerly known to many hobbyists as “Acans” (short for Acanthastrea), these corals have undergone taxonomic changes in recent years because of DNA sequencing. This comprehensive overview will cover their detailed taxonomy (including the reclassification of Acanthastrea to Micromussa), optimal aquarium care (water parameters, lighting, flow, feeding, and supplementation), propagation methods, and common health challenges. Taxonomy and Recent Reclassification of Acanthastrea to Micromussa Micromussa corals belong to the family Lobophylliidae, a family of Indo-Pacific LPS corals that was redefined in the late 2000s​. Until recently, the genus Micromussa was a minor group containing only a single notable species (Micromussa amakusensis). However, a major taxonomic revision in 2016 reshaped this genus​. Molecular (DNA-based) phylogenetic studies combined with detailed skeletal morphology comparisons revealed that several corals formerly classified as Acanthastrea were more closely related to Micromussa. As a result, those species were transferred into Micromussa. Genetic analysis showed this species is unrelated to the true Acanthastrea ( A. Enchinata ) group and fits within Micromussa​. Its corallites (skeletal cups) have the size, shape, and fine tooth-like septa typical of Micromussa, rather than the smoother septa of Acanthastrea​. Based on these findings, A. lordhowensis was reclassified as Micromussa lordhowensis in 2016​. Key species in the genus Micromussa: After the reclassification, Micromussa now includes several species. The top two being the bulk of the corals of this type seen in the aquarium hobby. • Micromussa lordhowensis – formerly Acanthastrea lordhowensis, the popular “Acan Lord” coral with large polyps​. • Micromussa amakusensis – the original “Micro” coral, having smaller polyps (~8 mm corallites) and often encrusting growth. Sometimes nicknamed “Micro Lords” by hobbyists​ • Micromussa pacifica – a newly described species. • Micromussa indiana – another recently described Indo-Pacific species​ • Micromussa multipunctata – formerly in Montastraea (an Atlantic genus), now recognized as a Micromussa​ . It’s worth noting that not all former “Acans” moved to Micromussa. For example, the large-polyped Acanthastrea bowerbanki and A. hillae were reclassified into a different genus (Homophyllia) after studies showed they form their own lineage​. Meanwhile, the genus Acanthastrea itself has been restricted mainly to a few species like A. echinata. In everyday aquarium practice, however, hobbyists still often refer to Micromussa corals as “Acans,” so understanding the naming history is helpful. Water Parameters for Optimal Care Like most reef-building corals, Micromussa thrive in stable, clean water conditions. They are generally hardy and can tolerate a range of parameters, but ideal water chemistry will promote better growth and coloration. Aim to maintain the following key parameters in a Micromussa aquarium: • Temperature: ~75–78 °F (24–26 °C). They naturally live in warm reef waters (often around 82 °F in the wild), but they adapt well to typical reef tank temperatures in the mid to upper 70s​ • Salinity: ~1.025 specific gravity (35 ppt). Natural seawater salinity is ideal; keep within 1.023–1.026 for stability​ • pH: Maintain ~8.0–8.4 pH, with minimal daily fluctuation​. A steady pH (around 8.2) indicates good buffering (alkalinity) and gas exchange. • Alkalinity (dKH): ~8–10 dKH. Moderate alkalinity supports calcification; Micromussa can tolerate 8–12 dKH​, but sudden changes should be avoided to prevent stress. • Calcium and Magnesium: Calcium ~400–450 ppm and Magnesium ~1250–1350 ppm to support skeletal growth​. These levels ensure the coral has the ions needed to build its calcium carbonate skeleton. • Nutrients (Nitrate & Phosphate): Moderate nutrients are beneficial. Aim for nitrates in the range of ~5–10 ppm and phosphates around 0.05–0.1 ppm​. Micromussa corals do not require ultra-low nutrient water; in fact, they often display better growth and coloration with some nutrients available. Extremely low nutrients can cause pale colors or starvation, whereas excessively high nutrients (e.g. >40 ppm nitrate) may lead to algae growth and brown coloration. The key is stability – avoid dramatic nutrient swings and maintain good filtration (protein skimming, refugium, etc.) to export excess after feeding. In general, clean, stable water is the goal. Regular water changes or dosing of elements can help replenish trace elements (strontium, iodine, etc.) that Micromussa may use. They are fairly forgiving if parameters are slightly off, but will show best expansion and growth when conditions are kept consistently within the ranges above​. Lighting Requirements M. Amakusensis (left) M. Lordhowensis other 6 (right) Micromussa corals prefer lower to moderate light levels in the aquarium. In the wild, they are often found in deeper or turbid reef environments (for example, M. lordhowensis is found down to ~30 m depth) where light is less intense​. In captivity, they thrive under gentle lighting and can suffer if exposed to very strong illumination without acclimation: • Intensity: Low to medium. A PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) range of roughly 50–100 PAR is a good range, they can survive higher if gradually acclimated, but too much light can cause bleaching or color loss. Intense lighting is known to cause Micromussa colors to morph – often shifting toward dominant reds or oranges under extremely bright light​. For example, a multi-colored “rainbow” Micromussa may turn mostly red/orange if placed directly under high-intensity LEDs or metal halides. To preserve vibrant multi-colors, it’s often recommended to keep them in the shade or under predominantly blue-spectrum lighting​. A stronger blue/actinic spectrum helps prevent color morphing and maintains the neon greens, yellows, and blues in rainbow specimens​. • Photoperiod: Standard reef tank photoperiods (8–12 hours of light) are fine. Provide a gradual ramp-up and ramp-down if using LEDs to simulate dawn and dusk, which helps avoid light shock. • Placement relative to light: It’s usually best to place Micromussa corals near the bottom or mid-levels of the tank, rather than at the very top​. On sandbeds or lower rocks, they receive gentler light. If you have very powerful lighting, consider partial shade or an overhang. Always start new Micromussa frags in lower light and acclimate slowly to brighter conditions if you intend to move them. Watch for signs of stress: bleaching (too much light) or excessive stretching and dull colors (too little light). Micromussa will often expand fully under comfortable lighting; if they remain closed tightly, lighting (or another parameter) may be an issue. Keep in mind that Micromussa contain symbiotic zooxanthellae algae in their tissues, which provide energy via photosynthesis. However, they are not as light-demanding as many small-polyp stony (SPS) corals. When in doubt, err on the side of slightly lower light, as Micromussa can be “light-sensitive.” Always monitor their coloration – faded or scorched-looking tissue indicates too much light, whereas browned-out colors might indicate both excessive light (zooxanthellae density increasing) or high nutrients. Proper balance of light and nutrients will yield the best coloration. Flow Requirements and Placement in the Aquarium Micromussa corals have large, fleshy polyps that do not tolerate strong, direct water flow. In their natural habitat, they are often found in sheltered reef areas with gentle currents. Providing the right flow in your tank is important for their health: • Water Flow: Low to moderate, random flow is ideal. Avoid direct, laminar blasts of water at the coral. Strong flow can cause the fleshy polyps to retract or even tear the tissue​. A Micromussa should gently sway or have slight movement of its tentacles when extended, but it should not appear flattened or have its flesh whipping around. High flow can also prevent the coral from capturing food. For example, turbulent or direct powerhead flow may keep its feeding tentacles retracted, inhibiting its ability to eat​. • Aim for enough flow to keep the coral clean (prevent debris from settling on it) but not so much that the polyps cannot fully inflate. Often, placing Micromussa in a low-flow corner or in the “shadow” of rocks (where flow is diffused) works well. If using wavemakers, set them to a gentle pulsing or reef crest mode rather than constant blast. • Placement: Micromussa can be placed on sand beds or lower rockwork. Many aquarists keep them on the sand (often with the frag plug or coral mounted on a small tile/rock) to allow easy relocation and to ensure they are in lower light. They also do well on rock ledges in the lower half of the tank. Just be cautious that sand particles do not regularly settle on the colony – sand can irritate the tissue if a sand bed is very close and gets stirred up onto the coral. If placed on rocks, make sure the base is flat and secure; these corals do not like falling over or being jostled by crabs. Give them space from other corals (at least a few inches), because Micromussa are capable of aggression despite their slow movement. They have sweeper tentacles (and even mesenterial filaments) that can extend at night to sting nearby corals​. Feeding Habits and Nutritional Needs Micromussa corals are photosynthetic (housing zooxanthellae algae) but also strongly heterotrophic feeders. They benefit greatly from direct feeding, which can boost their growth and overall health. In the wild and in aquariums, Micromussa extend feeding tentacles (sweeper tentacles) primarily at night or when they detect food in the water, indicating they are ready to capture prey. • Feeding Response: When food is present, Micromussa polyps become very plump and their tentacles elongate. Tentacle extension is a clear sign the coral wants to feed​. In a reef tank, this often happens after the lights dim or when you add fish food or plankton to the water. Many aquarists observe their Micromussa “smelling” the food and extending feeders at the slightest hint of meal time. • What to Feed: These corals have relatively large mouths and can ingest surprisingly sizable prey for their size. They eagerly consume meaty foods. Suitable offerings include: mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, finely chopped krill or clam, zooplankton (e.g. calanus, pods), and prepared LPS pellets or coral foods. For instance, at Top Shelf Aquatics they report success using a mixture of PE Mysis, Fauna Marin LPS pellets, and Benepets (a powdered coral food) • Feeding Frequency: Micromussa can be fed 2–3 times per week for optimal growth​. They do not need daily feeding, but regular target feeding accelerates growth, encourages new polyp buds, and maintains vibrant coloration. In my experience, consistent feeding is essential for their continued health, growth, and coloration​. Corals that are well-fed tend to keep their bright pigments and recover faster from stress. Be careful not to overfeed to the point that water quality suffers – always ensure proper filtration to remove the excess nutrients that heavy feeding introduces​. A good routine is spot-feeding a few polyps at a time and watching the coral ingest the food over a few minutes. After feeding, you may turn off pumps briefly to let them eat, then resume flow to carry away any leftovers. • Nutritional Supplements: In addition to foods, Micromussa require balanced reef chemistry to supply the building blocks for their skeleton and tissue. Make sure your calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium are in range (as discussed in Water Parameters). Trace elements such as strontium, iodine, and iron can also be important, though these are usually replenished with regular water changes. If you run an ultra-low nutrient system, you might need to dose trace elements separately. Some reef keepers dose amino acid supplements, which can help coral tissue growth and coloration. While not strictly necessary, these can benefit LPS corals in nutrient-poor tanks by providing additional organic nutrients. Monitor your coral’s reaction – well-fed Micromussa will appear full, with fleshy, inflated polyps, and will display open mouths waiting for food. Pale or shrunken polyps could indicate hunger or lack of nutrients. Remember that Micromussa corals have dual energy sources: photosynthesis and feeding. They can survive on light alone (thanks to their symbiotic algae), but feeding unlocks their full potential. A combination of good lighting (for baseline energy) and periodic feeding (for extra nutrition) will yield the best growth rates. Many aquarists find feeding these corals to be one of the most enjoyable aspects of their care – Micromussa often put on a dramatic display when catching food, showing off vibrant colors and swaying tentacles as they pull prey into their central mouths​. Propagation Methods (Fragging and Reproduction) Micromussa corals can be propagated in captivity through fragmentation (fragging) and, less commonly, through sexual reproduction (spawning). • Fragging (Asexual Propagation): Micromussa, especially M. lordhowensis, are considered fragile-looking but actually quite durable when it comes to cutting. They grow as colonies of many individual polyps connected by a calcium carbonate skeleton. Frags can be made by cutting through this skeleton between polyps. The preferred method is to use a diamond band saw or Dremel with a diamond blade, as this provides a clean cut with minimal pressure on the coral​. It’s important to cut between polyp centers, along the skeletal ridges, to avoid damaging the fleshy polyp mouths​. With a steady hand, one can cut the colony into smaller sections, each containing one or several polyps. If a saw is not available, sturdy bone-cutting forceps can snap the skeleton, though this is less precise and may cause more collateral damage. Safety precautions are advised: wear gloves (both to protect yourself from coral mucus/bacteria and to keep the coral clean) and eye protection​. because cutting LPS corals can squirt water or tiny fragments. After cutting, mount the frag onto a plug or rock using reef-safe super glue or epoxy putty​. Finally, dip the fresh frags in an iodine-based coral dip to prevent infection​. An iodine solution (per bottle instructions) will help sterilize any cut edges and tissue, reducing the chance of bacterial invasion into the wound. Place the new frags in a quarantine or low-stress area of the tank with low flow for a day, then gradually increase flow. Good water flow is crucial during healing as it brings oxygen and removes slime/algae from the cut site​. Over the next days to weeks, the cut edges will heal and new tissue will grow over exposed skeleton. Micromussa frags, if healthy, usually heal well and start growing new mouths over the cut within a couple of weeks under proper conditions. Regular feeding can expedite recovery and growth of the frags. Each fragment will continue to bud new polyps as it grows out, eventually forming another colony. • Sexual Reproduction (Spawning): In nature, Micromussa corals are known to reproduce sexually by spawning. Micromussa lordhowensis, for example, is a hermaphroditic broadcast spawner​. This means each colony produces both eggs and sperm and releases them into the water column during spawning events. The gametes unite to form larvae (planulae) that drift with the plankton. Remarkably, M. lordhowensis larvae have been observed to survive and remain free-swimming for up to 78 days before settling​. This long larval period allows them to disperse widely in the ocean. Upon finding a suitable substrate, the larvae metamorphose into a primary polyp and start a new colony. In home aquariums, sexual reproduction is rarely observed – it requires conditions that mimic natural spawning cues (temperature cycles, lunar cycles, etc.). There are few reports of successful coral spawning in captivity for large-polyp corals, and raising the larvae is challenging. However, as captive breeding techniques advance, it’s possible that aquarists may one day induce and raise Micromussa from spawn. For now, fragmentation is the main propagation method in the hobby. By fragging responsibly, hobbyists can spread Micromussa corals without wild collection, contributing to sustainable reef-keeping. If you plan to cut your Micromussa, ensure the coral is healthy and expanded (not stressed) beforehand, have the right tools, and always dip afterward. Also be aware that cutting stony corals releases their slime and any toxins, so keep other corals downstream protected and run carbon in your filter after fragging to absorb any chemical cues or mucus. Given time and good care, a single polyp frag can grow into a stunning colony – patience is key, as Micromussa are not the fastest growers. Expect new buds to form at the edges of the colony over months. With ideal conditions, a healthy Micromussa might sprout several new polyps each month, but growth rates can vary. The good news is they generally won’t outgrow their space too quickly or become invasive​, so they are easy to manage in a reef tank. Potential Pests, Diseases, and Common Health Issues M. Lordhowensis While Micromussa are relatively hardy, they can fall victim to certain pests and diseases in a reef aquarium. Early detection and intervention are important to keep your corals healthy. Below are some of the common issues and how to manage them: • Brown Jelly Disease (BJD): This is a notorious affliction for many LPS corals, Micromussa included. Brown Jelly is essentially a bacterial/protozoan infection that causes the coral’s tissue to slough off as a brown, gelatinous mass. It often strikes after a coral has been stressed or damaged. Any LPS coral with zooxanthellae can develop “brown jelly” when severely stressed, and it’s basically the coral’s flesh rotting away in a mucus coating​. In Micromussa, you might see one or more heads suddenly turn to brown slime, often following an injury or parameter swing. Once brown jelly sets in, it can spread quickly and even infect nearby corals if the jelly drifts. Treatment: The best approach is to immediately remove the affected colony from the display tank to avoid spread​. Siphon or gently blow off the jelly (outside the tank) and perform an iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip. Often, you will have to frag off any remaining healthy heads and discard the infected parts​. Some hobbyists have experimented with antibiotics or even household cures (there are anecdotal reports of using diluted hydrogen peroxide dips). The key is that Brown Jelly usually indicates the coral was in a dire state (from some underlying cause like injury, aggression, or a big drop in water quality), so prevention is best: avoid injuring the coral, keep water quality high, and promptly blow off any debris that might cause tissue damage. • “Pink Band” Disease: Another disease noted in Micromussa (especially “Acans”) is a pink band or pink rot that can appear on dead skeleton. Hobbyists have observed a pink cyanobacterial film that invades the coral’s base after tissue loss​. It’s thought to be a burrowing cyanobacteria that infects the skeleton and leaves a pink coloration once a head has died​. Unfortunately, like brown jelly, there is no surefire cure once it takes hold; it’s a sign the coral’s health had declined. The best practice is similar – remove and quarantine the affected pieces, and consider discarding severely infected parts to protect other Micromussa in the tank​. Maintaining excellent flow and low detritus accumulation can help prevent such bacterial or cyanobacterial infections from gaining a foothold. • Pest Flatworms and Nudibranchs: Unlike some corals (like Acropora or Montipora) which have specific pest flatworms or nudibranchs, Micromussa are not known for a dedicated obligate pest species. However, generalist pest flatworms (e.g. red planaria) can sometimes irritate them by covering the tissue and blocking light. If you see small rust-colored flatworms on or around your Micromussa, consider doing a dip to knock them off. • Vermetid Snails: Vermetid snails are a common reef tank pest – they are stationary tube snails that cast sticky mucus webs to catch food. These mucus nets can settle on corals and irritate them continually. Micromussa polyps may remain retracted if a vermetid snail’s web is constantly draping over them. If you notice thin mucus strings on your Micromussa, check for a spiral snail tube in the vicinity. Removal of vermetid snails (by breaking their tubes and sealing with glue or epoxy) is recommended, as their presence can lead to chronic inflammation of coral tissue. Some aquarists dose certain medications (like praziquantel or fenbendazole in a separate treatment tank) to eliminate vermetids, but manual removal is most common. A natural predator to vermatids often found in the hobby are Bumble Bee Snails • Other Issues (Tissue Recession and Polyp Bail-Out): Sometimes a Micromussa will start to recede – the fleshy polyp shrinks and pulls back, exposing the white skeleton edges. This tissue recession can be caused by stress such as sudden temperature changes, alkalinity spikes, or aggression from a neighboring coral. If you notice recession, check all water parameters and look for any brown jelly onset. You might save the coral by cutting off affected heads and dipping the remaining colony in an antiseptic coral dip. Polyp bail-out (where the coral polyp detaches from the skeleton) is a very rare last-resort response to stress. The free-living polyp generally doesn’t survive long or reattach, so it’s indicative of severe distress. Preventive measures: The best way to avoid pests and diseases is to quarantine and dip new coral additions. Many Micromussa issues come from introducing a new frag that harbors unseen pests or bacteria. Using a proper coral dip (iodine, peroxide at correct dilution, or commercial pest dip solutions) will eliminate most hitchhikers like flatworms and snails​. Inspect the coral for eggs (some pests lay tiny egg clusters that dips won’t kill) and scrape them off. Maintain good tank husbandry: stable water quality, moderate flow to prevent sediment buildup on corals, and avoid injuring the coral during maintenance. Running activated carbon can remove toxins (like allelopathic chemicals from nearby soft corals or the mucus from a distressed coral) which might otherwise weaken Micromussa. Lastly, keep an eye on tank inhabitants: certain fish can be “pests” too – angelfish, butterflyfish, and some wrasses are known to nip at fleshy LPS polyps. If your Micromussa is mysteriously retracting or losing flesh, observe at different times of day to see if a fish or shrimp is picking at it. Peppermint shrimp, for instance, sometimes irritate corals while stealing food from them. By being vigilant and responding quickly to problems, you can usually save a Micromussa from most ailments. A healthy Micromussa will have full, puffy polyps, good coloration, and will extend tentacles at feeding time. A stressed or ill one will look deflated, may have discoloration or slime, and will not feed readily. Address issues as soon as noticed, and don’t hesitate to seek advice from experienced reef keepers if you encounter an unfamiliar problem. In summary, keeping Micromussa corals successfully comes down to patience and attentiveness. They are not extremely demanding, but they respond best when you fine-tune their environment: gentle light, gentle flow, regular feeding, and a calm neighborhood in the tank. Both beginners and seasoned reefers enjoy Micromussa: beginners appreciate their hardiness and beautiful appearance at moderate cost, while advanced hobbyists often collect high-end color morphs (“Ultra” or “Holy Grail” Micromussa) and grow them out. As of 2016, we might have to get used to calling them Micromussa instead of Acanthastrea, but by any name they remain a colorful centerpiece LPS. With the guidelines above, aquarists can provide the proper care for Micromussa corals and enjoy their slow but steady growth and ever-changing kaleidoscope of colors in the reef tank.

Magician and Candy Apple Red Zoa Zoanthid Coral Taxonomy and Aquarium Care  Zoanthids are colonial cnidarian corals known for their dazzling colors and rapid growth. They belong to the order Zoantharia (also called Zoanthidea), within the subclass Hexacorallia (same group as stony corals and anemones)​. There are dozens of described zoanthid species – historically over 300 were named, though later taxonomic revisions reduced the number of distinct species to around 60 accepted species​. In general, zoanthids resemble small sea anemones, forming mats or colonies of individual polyps on reef surfaces​. They are extremely popular in reef aquariums for their hardy nature and stunning variety of color morphs​ Zoanthid Coral Taxonomy and Genera In taxonomy, zoanthids are grouped into several families and genera based on their morphology. All zoanthids have a cylindrical polyp body with tentacles around the margin of the oral disc. Unlike stony corals, they have no hard skeleton, and many species (Palythoa, Protopaly) incorporate sand or sediment into their tissues for support . The most commonly encountered zoanthid genera in the hobby include: • Zoanthus – Typically small “button polyps” forming colorful encrusting mats. Zoanthus species (often called “zoas”) usually have smaller polyps and do not embed sand in their flesh​ . Examples include Zoanthus sociatus and Zoanthus gigantus, known for neon colors. • Palythoa – Generally larger polyps often containing sand in their base and oral disc (giving a rough texture)​ . Palythoa (and the closely related Protopalythoa) include species like Palythoa grandis, which can reach 1–3 inches across and is infamous for strong toxins​ . Hobbyists often refer to big polyps as “palys.” Because of this many Zoanthus gigantus are often mislabled as a Paly • Parazoanthus – Colonial zoanthids often associated with other organisms. For instance, Parazoanthus gracilis (the common yellow polyps) grows long stems with bright yellow polyps. They usually lack zooxanthellae or have fewer, and some live commensally on sponges or gorgonians​ . • Isaurus – Unusual genus sometimes called “snake polyps.” They have elongated, tube-like polyps that retract into a leathery tube. Less common in the trade, they resemble braided stalks. • Other genera: There are many other zoanthid genera (e.g. Epizoanthus, Acrozoanthus, Savalia, etc.), especially in deep-water or symbiotic niches​. Many of these are not found in the Hobby ecosystem. It’s worth noting that zoanthid taxonomy is complex and still evolving; many color “morphs” in the aquarium trade are simply variants of a few species, and distinguishing species can be difficult without genetic analysis​. Many color morphs have had additional names given to them (bam bam, seduction, scrambled eggs, fruit loops) to distinguish the unique color patterns from others. Those names will be discussed in a different post. . Water Parameters for Zoanthids Zoanthids thrive in stable, reef-like water conditions. They are tolerant of a range of parameters but do best within natural seawater levels​ Exosphere Zoa • Temperature: ~72–78 °F (22–26 °C). Aim for a stable temperature around the mid-70s °F​ . Like most corals, zoanthids prefer stability; avoid swings larger than 1–2°F​ • • Salinity: Specific gravity around 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt)​ , matching natural seawater. Sudden changes in salinity can stress zoas, so top off evaporation and perform water changes carefully. • pH: Keep pH between 8.0 and 8.4​ . Adequate gas exchange and use of buffer (if needed) help maintain this range. Refugium with reverse light cycle can also stabilize this quite a bit • Alkalinity: 8–10 dKH is a good target​ . Zoanthids don’t build calcium carbonate skeletons, but a stable alkalinity within 7–11 dKH supports overall coral health​ • Calcium and Magnesium: Around 420 ppm Ca and 1300 ppm Mg (natural levels)​ . While zoas themselves don’t uptake much calcium, these levels indicate good overall water quality for a reef tank. • Nutrients (Nitrate & Phosphate): Avoid ultra-low nutrients. Zoanthids actually appreciate some dissolved nutrients. Aim for nitrates in the roughly 1–10 ppm range and phosphates around 0.01–0.05 ppm​ They generally do not fare well in tanks with zero detectable nitrate – a small amount (e.g. 3–7 ppm nitrate) is ideal for color and growth​ However, very high nutrients (nitrate >20–30 ppm or phosphate >0.1 ppm) can lead to algae issues and sluggish growth​. In general, zoanthids are forgiving and can handle “dirtier” water better than many hard corals, but it's best to keep nutrients moderate and stable. Consistency is more important than chasing exact numbers. Regular water changes and monitoring will help keep parameters in range. Zoanthids can survive less-than-perfect conditions, but abrupt swings in temperature, salinity, or other parameters often cause them to close up or “melt” (disintegrate)​ Lighting Requirements Zoanthids contain symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae) and thus require moderate to strong lighting for photosynthesis. In the wild, many zoanthids are found in shallow reefs under intense tropical sunlight, yet others inhabit dimmer areas – so they can adapt to a range of light levels. In aquariums, moderate light intensity is usually ideal, but they tolerate up to high light if acclimated properly​ . • Intensity: As a guideline, medium reef lighting (~100–200 PAR) often works well. For example, around 150 PAR is a “sweet spot” that many zoa colonies thrive in​ Under higher light, their colors may become more vibrant, but excessive light can cause bleaching or the polyps to stay closed​ If lighting is too low, zoanthids may stretch their stalks (“reach”) toward the light or turn brown due to increased zooxanthellae density​ • Type: Zoas grow well under a variety of lighting types – LED, T5 fluorescents, or metal halides have all been used successfully​. Many reef keepers use broad-spectrum LEDs which can be tuned for color. A blue-rich spectrum will make their fluorescence pop, but a balance of wavelengths supports health. • Photoperiod: A standard reef tank photoperiod (8–10 hours of full light) is sufficient. They appreciate a regular day/night cycle. • Acclimation: Always acclimate zoanthids to new lighting slowly​ If you upgrade to stronger lights or move a colony higher in the tank, start with shorter photoperiods or lower intensity and gradually increase. Sudden jumps in light can stress zoas, leading to bleaching (loss of color) or refusal to open​ Many zoanthids will indicate their lighting comfort by their behavior: if a colony’s polyps remain open and color is good, the lighting is acceptable. Watch for warning signs like persistent gaping (overly open and thin) which could indicate insufficient light, or a pale/washed-out look indicating too much light. Adjust placement in the tank accordingly – higher up for light-loving varieties, or shaded lower spots for more light-sensitive varieties. Overall, zoanthids are not as light-demanding as some SPS corals, but good lighting will encourage them to spread and show their best colors. Flow Requirements Proper water flow is important to keep zoanthid corals healthy. They prefer a moderate, turbulent flow in most cases: • Moderate Flow: In nature zoanthids often experience gentle surges. In a tank, moderate flow helps carry away waste and brings food and nutrients to the colony​ • Avoid Excessive Flow: If the flow is too strong or direct, zoanthid polyps may stay closed to protect themselves​. Constant strong blast can cause them to retract and eventually weaken. Signs of too much flow include the polyps remaining tightly shut or appearing pinched. • Avoid Stagnant Spots: Too little flow can allow detritus to settle on the colony and lead to algae or bacterial growth around the polyps. Low flow may also deprive them of nutrition. In still water, zoas might accumulate slime or debris. You can solve this problem with a quick blast of a turkey baster. • Variable Flow Best: Use wavemakers or alternating currents to create a varied flow. This ensures all sides of the colony get circulation. Aiming a powerhead indirectly (bounce off a wall or rock) usually creates a gentler random flow rather than pointing it straight at the zoas. In practice, placing zoanthids in areas of the tank with low-to-moderate current works well. For example, they often do well on the lower half of the rockwork where flow is present but not as intense as near pumps. Observe the colony: if you see a thin film on them or debris collecting, increase flow slightly; if they remain closed and refuse to open for long periods, consider reducing flow or moving them to a calmer spot. Striking the right balance will keep them open and clean, enhancing their growth. Feeding Habits and Supplementation Zoanthids derive most of their nutrition from photosynthesis via their symbiotic algae, but they can also ingest food particles. In general, they do not require direct feeding – healthy zoas can get by on light and the nutrients available in the water​. However, supplemental feeding can boost growth and coloration if done carefully: Utter Chaos Zoa • Target Feeding: Many aquarists choose to occasionally feed zoanthids with fine particulate foods. They will accept micro-plankton, brine shrimp nauplii, rotifers, Reef-Roids, Benepets or other coral powders, etc.​ Using a turkey baster or pipette to gently squirt food onto the polyps can elicit a feeding response – the polyps may close around the food. Not all zoas respond dramatically, but some larger palythoa will readily eat meaty bits. You can also broadcast the food into the water column and turn off return pumps and filtration for 5-10 mins • • Feeding Frequency: Feed sparingly – perhaps once or twice a week at most. Overfeeding can foul water quality quickly, leading to algae and bacterial issues that harm the zoas​. Since they don’t need much, it’s better to under-feed than over-feed. • • Nutrient Absorption: Even without direct feeding, zoanthids can absorb dissolved nutrients from fish food and waste in the water. They tend to thrive in tanks that aren’t too “nutrient poor.” A lightly dirty tank (with detectable nitrate/phosphate) essentially feeds zoanthids in part​ • Trace Elements: Regular water changes with a good salt mix usually replenish trace elements. One element often noted for zoanthids is iodine. Zoanthids are thought to utilize iodine, and in systems with many zoas, iodine can become depleted​. Some experienced keepers dose an iodine supplement to encourage growth (caution: overdose of iodine can be harmful, so test levels if dosing). Generally, if you observe slowed growth or dull color, checking iodine and other trace elements may be worthwhile. Otherwise, a balanced reef supplement regime (calcium, alkalinity, magnesium in line, plus minor elements via water changes) is sufficient. • Amino Acids/Vitamins: There are reef additive products containing amino acids or vitamins that corals, including zoanthids, might benefit from. While not essential, some hobbyists report improved polyp extension and color when dosing these occasionally​. Use such supplements cautiously and observe for any positive or negative reactions. Propagation Methods One reason zoanthids are beloved in the hobby is that they are easy to propagate. They naturally reproduce asexually by budding new polyps and spreading over rocks​ • Natural Spreading: In a healthy tank, a zoanthid colony will grow and spread on its own. New polyps emerge from the mat (coenosarc) or stolons that connect existing polyps​. Over time, a small frag can cover a whole rock. You can encourage spreading by placing the colony on a flat frag tile or an isolated “island” rock with space around it. • Fragging (Cutting): Zoanthids are commonly “fragged” (fragmented) to propagate them. Using a sharp scalpel, bone shears, diamond coated Dremel blade or band saw. You can cut a section of the mat or even individual polyps from the colony. Typically, hobbyists will remove a small cluster (e.g. 3-5 polyps) by slicing the connecting mat, Then glue that piece onto a new plug or rock. They attach easily to surfaces with reef-safe super glue gel. Within a few days to weeks, the frags heal and begin growing new polyps. • Fragging Safety: Caution: Many zoanthids, especially Palythoa, produce palytoxin, one of the most potent natural toxins​. This can be harmful or even life-threatening to humans if ingested or if it enters cuts or aerosolizes. Always wear gloves (and eye protection) when cutting or handling zoanthids, and ideally perform cutting under water or in a well-ventilated area​. Do not squeeze or squish the polyps – this can squirt toxin-laden fluid​. Never attempt to boil rocks or coral to remove zoanthids; boiling can release palytoxin into the air and has caused serious poisonings​. By using basic precautions, propagation is safe and routine. • Techniques: When cutting zoas, many hobbyists do it submerged in a container of tank water to minimize aerosol exposure and to rinse away slime. Gently detach the mat with a blade or peel a polyp off the rock. If the zoas are on a small rock, sometimes it’s easier to use bone cutters to chip the rock beneath the polyps, then glue (Thick Cyanoacrylate) that rubble piece to a plug – this avoids directly cutting the soft tissue. Dip the frag and mother in saltwater with coral dip like iodine (mix to the instruction of the dip) to reduce bacteria infection. After fragging, discard the wastewater and rinse tools. The new frags should be placed in low flow, moderate light to recover for a few days before returning to normal conditions. • Healing and Growth: Zoanthid frags usually recover quickly. Within a week, you’ll often see the polyps reopening on their new mount. They can be surprisingly resilient to cutting. Regular feeding and stable water will help the frags grow out faster. Overall, propagation of zoanthids is straightforward – cut, glue, and grow. Just remember to respect their toxin and practice safe handling. With time, you can grow a single polyp into a large colony and even create stunning “zoa gardens” by placing different color morphs next to each other. Oompa Loompa, Blue Hornet, Twizler Zoa Potential Pests and Diseases Like all corals, zoanthids can suffer from pests and diseases. Being vigilant and taking preventive steps (like dipping new corals) is key to keeping zoa colonies healthy. Common pests and ailments affecting zoanthids include​ • Sea Spiders (Pycnogonids): Tiny spider-like marine arthropods sometimes prey on zoanthids. They are often called “zoanthid eating spiders.” These pests are thin, translucent, and crawl around the base of polyps, sucking out juices. Affected polyps may stay closed or slowly wither. Manual removal and dipping are the typical remedies as well. • Zoanthid-eating nudibranchs are one of the most notorious pests. These are small (~1 cm) sea slugs that specialize in eating zoanthid polyps. They often have frilly appendages and take on the color of the zoanthids they consume, making them hard to spot among the colony​. They hide in between polyps and lay spiral clusters of eggs on the zoa mat​. Infested zoas will close up and begin to disappear as the nudibranchs eat them. Removal: The best defense is prevention – always dip new zoa frags in a coral dip (e.g. Coral RX or iodine solution) to kill nudibranchs and their eggs​. If they do appear, you can manually pick them off with tweezers and continue dipping weekly to eradicate any hatchlings​ • Sundial Snails (Heliacus spp.): Sundial snails are small, cone-shaped snails with a distinct black-and-white spiraled shell. They are zoanthid predators that feed on the polyps primarily at night. If you notice a sundial snail among your zoas, remove it immediately – even one can decimate a colony over time. Check for more, as they can multiply. Again, coral dips can help dislodge them, but manual removal is effective once spotted. • Zoanthid Pox: Commonly called “zoa pox,” this is a disease that appears as tiny white or yellowish pimples or spots on the stalks and oral disc of zoanthid polyp. It is believed to be a bacterial infection (some sources say possibly viral) that can spread within a colony and to others in the tank​. Infected polyps often remain closed and may eventually die off if untreated. Treatment: Many hobbyists have success treating zoa pox by doing a series of baths in an antibiotic called Furan-2. Following a proper dip regimen (e.g. daily dips for a few days) can clear up the infection. Improving water quality and flow can also help prevent outbreaks. • Fungal/Bacterial Infections (Necrosis): Sometimes a zoanthid colony may suffer a rapid tissue necrosis – polyps dissolve or “melt” one by one. This can be due to a bacterial infection or stress. If you see a brown or black sludge on a colony or a foul smell, it may be bacterial rot. Isolation and iodine dips may save the remaining polyps. Often called “zoa melt,” this condition is unfortunately somewhat mysterious, but maintaining stable parameters and prompt removal of diseased tissue can mitigate it. • Irritators and Predators: In addition to dedicated pests, other creatures can bother zoanthids. Certain fish (angelfish, butterflyfish, some wrasses) will nip at zoa polyps​. Emerald crabs or hermit crabs may pick at food around them and inadvertently irritate the colony. Even bristle worms or amphipods usually harmless can irritate zoas if present in large numbers. If polyps refuse to open, it’s worth checking at night for pests or hungry critters. • Algae Overgrowth: A more indirect threat is encroaching algae (hair algae, bryopsis, cyanobacteria) overgrowing a zoanthid colony. If nutrients are high, algae can smother the mat, causing polyps to starve or stay closed. Keep algae in check and consider manual removal (with care) of any that threaten to overrun the colony. Snails and other clean-up crew can help keep the area around zoas clean. To prevent pests, always dip and inspect new zoanthid additions. Using a quarantine tank for new corals is wise if you want to be extra safe​. Periodically blowing detritus off the colony with a turkey baster can reveal any hidden pests and keep the colony clean. If issues arise, early intervention is key – a prompt freshwater dip or commercial coral dip can save a colony if pests are caught early. Zoanthids are hardy, but a severe pest infestation can overwhelm them, so diligence is important. Troubleshooting Tips If your zoanthids aren’t opening or don’t look right, run through a quick mental checklist – pests? water parameters stable? lighting/flow appropriate? any nearby corals bothering them? Is there detritus amongst the polyps? In many cases, the issue can be identified and corrected (for example, discovering nudibranchs and dipping the coral, or raising nutrients slightly in an ultra-low nutrient tank, or turkey basting closed polyps to clear debris and bacteria). Zoanthids are hardy and often recover once the underlying problem is fixed. By monitoring your tank closely and responding to changes, you’ll find that zoas are resilient and rewarding corals that can flourish for years, providing a kaleidoscope of color in your reef.

A year ago, coming back to the hobby after a hiatus. Our main tank (450) needed a lot of work to eliminate algae and get the parameters back in line and stable. To satisfy the desire to have corals "right now!" I took some live rock from the long established tank and started this innovative marine 25g lagoon Reefi uno 2.0 led light Red sea ATO Ecotech MP10 shooting flow around the back behind rock scape to create gyre flow Small refugium in the back filter box section with macro algae lit by a small plant led light All for reef in top off to replenish elements along with regular large volume waterchanges